by Diane Covington

here’s a special beauty about Yosemite Valley, off-season. It’s quiet, uncrowded and very romantic. In fall, you can walk among the giant sequoias and tall pines with only the roar of Yosemite Falls to break the stillness. Or watch the sunlight reflecting off crimson fall leaves against a bright blue sky.

In winter, there’s a majestic hush to the valley as nature dresses her in her thick white cloak. Wildlife, which hides from the summer crowds, ventures out — a coyote barks to its mate as it runs through the woods.

In winter, there’s a majestic hush to the valley as nature dresses her in her thick white cloak.

In spring, the almond orchards are ablaze with blossoms on the drive intos Yosemite Valley. If you’re lucky, you can probably still ski at Badger Pass. And there’s always hiking in the valley and on some of the lower trails.

In the heart of Yosemite Valley, the historic Ahwahnee Hotel sits right up against the three-thousand foot granite cliffs, its rock façade blending with the massive stones behind it. The Ahwahnee, the ‘Grand Dame’ hotel of the park, was built in 1927 for a sum of 1.5 million dollars. The elegant dining room, with giant sugar pine beams criss-crossing the 34-foot ceilings, can feel like a scene from a fairy tale.

With chilly weather, the hotel becomes a cozy and romantic haven.

In the Great Lounge, sunlight streams in through the floor to ceiling windows. Warm fires crackle in the massive fireplaces. Yosemite Valley offers many choices of outdoor sports and activities, but off-season, it’s the indoor feasting that has made the Ahwahnee famous through the years.

You can plan ahead for the Vintner’s Holidays held in November, the famous and festive Bracebridge Dinner at Christmas and the Chef’s Holidays in January. This winter, there’s still time to enjoy the Heritage Holidays March 1-3, celebrating the art deco lineage of the Ahwahnee with the music, art, dance and culture of the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘40s. This three-day celebration culminates with a Grand Ball with the Royal Society Jazz Orchestra. Vintage clothing encouraged.

Be sure to take advantage of the full schedule of daily activities in the valley, most of them free, open to park visitors. Or choose from the many different levels of winter sports activities for all ages. The park keeps the roads clear, but carry chains.

Whether you go for the feasting or for outdoor fun, the majesty of Yosemite off-season will transport you to an earlier time and place, full of wonder and magic. And the Ahwahnee Hotel will add her elegant and romantic welcome.

Badger Pass Winter Sports: From the valley, catch the free shuttle up to Badger Pass ski area, for snowboarding, downhill and cross-country skiing. Or enjoy a free snowshoe walk with a park ranger, daily at 10:30am. (You can rent snowshoes for $5.)

Valley sports and fun: pretend you’re an Olympic skater at the Curry Village ice skating rink. Or get a head start on the hiking season this year. Depending on the level of snowfall, many valley hiking trails may be open.

Ranger walks and talks: Each day in the valley, choose among various indoor talks or valley walks, even ‘Wee Wild Ones’ for children under six. Or catch an evening ranger program at Yosemite Lodge.

Museums and gallery: Browse through the Visitor’s Center, Ansel Adams Gallery or the Indian Cultural Museum, or watch the half-hour film, The Spirit of Yosemite.

Yosemite National Park: tel. 801/559-4884; www.yosemitepark.com.

Diane Covington is a freelance travel writer based in Nevada City, California.

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