by Inga Aksamit

fter surviving a hectic spring last year, my husband Steve stated emphatically, “We need a beach vacation.” When scanning a map and accounting for our available time off (limited) we decided that Puerto Vallarta fit the bill.

Though we were there to unwind, we planned an overly ambitious itinerary for the first day. After touring the lovely beach-front grounds of the Westin Hotel-Club Regina, we caught a city bus and headed downtown. Listless with the heat, we wandered around a few stalls before wilting. Deciding that we had forgotten how to relax, we headed back to the hotel pool, where we should have been all along.

… we strolled in the soft, warm air and sat on the sea wall taking in the inky ocean…

Wanting to rediscover a distinctive eatery we had found on a previous visit, we journeyed to the fishing village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, approximately one hour north by bus. Relieved, we found intact the family residence where tacos have been served to the neighborhood for more than a decade on the large front patio. The “menu” was limited to tacos, served with a dish of lime wedges, crunchy sliced radishes, roasted jalapeno peppers and salsa. The warm corn tortillas, filled with spicy fresh tomato salsa, mashed avocado and savory grilled steak, were as tasty as we remembered. We found the operation a little more formal, with English-speaking waiters, and a name, Tacos on the Street, but with the same menu and fresh flavors as before.

The next evening, after spending the day lounging at the beach, we strolled in the soft, warm air and sat on the sea wall taking in the inky ocean, lit up for a short time by the nightly fireworks over Banderas Bay. A sophisticated beach bar beckoned us to recline on comfortable settees, while sipping wine and listening to the soft tones of lounge music. I gazed dreamily up at the palm fronds rustling in the light breeze under the stars and felt that, finally, we were learning to relax.
The next evening we headed back downtown in search of a restaurant recommended by a friend, the Vista Grill.

Disembarking from the bus too early, we quickly realized we might have more of a walk than we anticipated. Fixing our eyes on a steep hill with endless concrete steps, we once again felt limp. Finally, we entered the establishment to find a view that took what was left of our breath away. While the journey had been arduous, the reward was a panoramic view of the town of Puerto Vallarta, with the shimmering Pacific stretching far away, lit by the orange sphere of the setting sun. The refined surroundings, attentive staff, and a cool glass of Chardonnay soothed and refreshed us.

We enjoyed a fresh arugula salad with strawberries and perfectly grilled shrimp, and finished with a smooth chocolate terrine. Taking our time savoring the moments, we felt rejuvenated and reconnected with each other. The Vista Grill provided the perfect, romantic conclusion to a wonderful, ultimately relaxing trip.

Westin Hotel & Spa: tel. 800/937-8461; www.puertovallerta.com.

Inga Aksamit is a Marin-based travel writer who escapes to the beach or the mountains whenever
she can.

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